Two Kellys can share a size, a leather and a colour and still look nothing alike. The reason is construction, and choosing between Kelly Sellier or Retourne settles more about how the bag wears than any other decision you make. Therefore it is worth understanding before you shop by colour.
What the two words actually mean
Sellier means saddler. The saddler stitches the panels on the outside and paints the exposed edges, which holds the bag rigid. Retourne means returned: the same maker stitches the panels inside out, then turns the bag, so the seams hide and the corners soften.
As a result, a Sellier stands up on a table and a Retourne leans. Neither is the better bag. However, they suit different wardrobes and different levels of care.
How each one wears
A Sellier keeps its architecture for years, because the rigid leathers it uses do not relax. Meanwhile the painted edges take the brunt of daily handling, and corner rub shows there first. In short, it looks sharp and it asks to be treated carefully.
A Retourne slouches gently with use. Consequently it forgives a crowded bag and a rushed morning, though it will never read as formal as its Sellier twin. For example, the same 32 in Clémence sits noticeably rounder than one in Epsom.
The leathers follow the construction
Rigid leathers suit Sellier: Epsom holds its grain and resists slouching, and Box calf polishes to a shine. Softer leathers suit Retourne, so Togo, Clémence and Swift appear there most often. Because tannery practice is audited against published standards, the hide you are buying is consistent from one bag to the next.
Our Hermès leather guide sets out how each one ages. In addition, exotic skins cross borders only with the right permits, which CITES governs.
Choosing between Kelly Sellier or Retourne
Buy Sellier if the bag is for meetings, dinners and photographs. Buy Retourne if it is for daily carry and you would rather it relaxed than stayed rigid. Similarly, consider the size: a 25 in Sellier reads jewel-like, while a 32 in Retourne is closer to a working handbag.
Meanwhile, if you are still weighing the model itself rather than its construction, Birkin or Kelly takes that question head on, and the Kelly Pochette explained covers the evening end of the family.
Kellys in stock now
Below are examples available as we publish. However, each one is a single unit, so stock moves quickly.
- Pre-Owned Hermès Kelly Sellier 35 Black Epsom
- Pre-Owned Hermès Kelly Retourne 32 Bleu De Malte
- Hermès Kelly Retourne 32 Cobalt Clémence
- Pre-Owned Hermès Kelly Sellier 35 Black Epsom
Browse the full Kelly collection, or see what has just landed on our Instagram.
Common questions
Is Kelly Sellier or Retourne worth more?
Sellier usually carries a premium on the secondary market, because the rigid leathers demand more skill. However, condition and colour move the price further than construction does.
Which one holds its shape better?
Sellier, clearly. Because the seams sit outside and the leather is firm, it keeps its lines even when it is empty.
Can a Retourne be converted to Sellier?
No. Construction happens at the cutting table, so nothing later can change it.
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