Classic Flap Bags

The Classic Flap descends from the 2.55, the quilted shoulder bag Gabrielle Chanel introduced in February 1955 with a chain strap so that a woman could carry a bag hands-free. The version most people mean today arrived in 1983, when Karl Lagerfeld reworked it with the interlocking CC turn-lock and threaded leather through the chain.

Size is the first decision. The Mini, square or rectangular, is an evening and light-day bag and is the size we hold most of. The Small and Medium are the everyday choices, the Medium being the size usually meant by "the Classic Flap". The Jumbo and Maxi carry considerably more and hang lower on the body.

Leather is the second. Caviar is a pressed, grained calfskin: durable, resistant to scratches and the practical choice for daily use. Lambskin is smooth and noticeably softer, with a depth of finish caviar cannot match, and it marks more easily. Beyond them the house works in tweed, suede, velvet, patent and jersey, usually seasonally, and those runs are not repeated. Our guide to caviar or lambskin covers how each ages.

Hardware dates a bag as much as decorates it: gold, silver, ruthenium and, on older pieces, 24k gold-plated fittings. The double flap and the burgundy interior lining belong to the classic construction.

On a pre-owned flap, examine the chain where it passes through the leather, the corners, and the area behind the turn-lock, since those bear the load. Check that the serial sticker or microchip matches the era of the bag. Every listing here sets out the hardware, the interior, the chain and the corners separately, and states the condition plainly. Classic Flap sizes explained compares the measurements in detail.