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Hermès Bolide: Sizes, Leathers and What to Check

The Hermès Bolide put the first zip on a handbag in 1923. Here are the sizes, the leathers that suit it, and what to check when buying one.

Hermès Bolide 27 Rose Azalee Epsom

The Hermès Bolide is the quiet one in the house line-up, and it is also the oldest idea in it. Because Émile-Maurice Hermès put a zip on a bag in 1923, this shape predates the Kelly and the Birkin by decades. Therefore it carries a different kind of history than either.

Hermès Bolide 27 in Rose Azalee Epsom with palladium hardware
The Bolide 27 in Epsom: the zip curves the full length of the top.

Where the shape came from

Hermès began as a harness maker, and the Bolide started life as a bag for the motor car. The zip was the innovation: nothing else on the market closed that way. Meanwhile the domed silhouette and the twin handles have barely changed since, which is why a 1970s example still reads as current. Hermès still lists it as a permanent line.

How the sizes carry

The Mini is an evening and errands bag, and it takes a phone, cards and a lipstick. A 25 works as a small day bag. Meanwhile the 27 and 31 carry what most people actually need, and the 31 will take a slim laptop sleeve at a push.

However, the domed shape means capacity reads smaller than the number suggests. For example, a Bolide 25 holds noticeably less than a flat-sided 25 would.

Leathers that suit a Hermès Bolide

Epsom keeps the dome crisp, because it is embossed and resists slouching. Clémence and Evercolor soften the line and feel more relaxed in the hand. Chèvre Mysore, a goatskin, holds a fine grain and a subtle shine, so it suits the Mini particularly well.

In addition, the zip is the part that dates a bag. Consequently a smooth, quiet zip is worth more than a perfect corner. Our Hermès leather guide covers how each hide ages.

What to check before you buy

Run the zip end to end and listen. Then look at the base corners, which take the wear on a bag that gets set down. Similarly, check the handle bases where the leather flexes, and the interior for pen marks.

Above all, ask when it was last spa-treated, because a refresh changes both the look and the price. Meanwhile what moves resale value applies to this shape as much as to a Birkin, and VAT, duty and the true landed cost sets out what lands on top of the ticket price.

Bolides in stock now

Below are examples available as we publish. However, each one is a single unit, so stock moves quickly.

Browse the full Bolide collection, or follow new arrivals on Instagram.

Common questions

Is the Hermès Bolide hard to get?

It is far easier than a Birkin or a Kelly, because demand sits lower. However, the Mini in a good colour still moves quickly.

Which size is most useful?

The 27 for most people. In short, it carries a day’s things without reading as a large bag.

Does the zip wear out?

Rarely, though it stiffens if the bag is stored full. Therefore empty it before it goes on the shelf.

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