Ask anyone to picture a Van Cleef bracelet and they will describe the same thing: five four-leaf clovers on a fine gold chain. That is the Vintage Alhambra, and it has barely changed since Van Cleef & Arpels introduced the Alhambra line in 1968. The choice is less simple than it looks, though. The same clover comes in onyx, malachite, carnelian, mother of pearl, plain gold and diamonds, and in three different bracelet lines. Here is how to choose.
The Vintage Alhambra: the Van Cleef bracelet most people mean
The Vintage Alhambra bracelet carries five clover motifs, each framed in a beaded gold edge, on an 18K gold chain about 7.5 inches (19 cm) long with a lobster clasp. It is the entry point to the line and the piece that trades most often, which is why it is the one we hold in the widest range.
Choosing a stone
The stone sets the mood of the bracelet, and it also decides how easily it sells on later.
- Onyx. Black on yellow gold is the classic, and it goes with everything. Ours is the Vintage Alhambra in onyx and yellow gold, $4,165. For a cooler look, there is a pre-owned onyx in white gold, $6,650.
- Malachite. A deep banded green. Each motif is cut from a different part of the stone, so no two bracelets match. See the malachite bracelet, $6,650.
- Carnelian. A warm orange-red, here alternating with engraved rose gold clovers: the carnelian guilloché bracelet, $5,950.
- Mother of pearl. Soft and luminous. Our grey mother of pearl bracelet alternates with diamond-set clovers in rose gold, $13,650.
- Brighter stones. Blue agate ($5,075) and turquoise ($12,950, pre-owned) are the summer choices, and rock crystal ($13,650) reads almost white.
- All gold. The hammered yellow gold bracelet ($5,950) has no stone at all, so it layers with anything.
Malachite and turquoise are softer and more porous than onyx. Therefore keep them away from perfume, lotion and water, and put the bracelet on last when you dress.
Sweet, Vintage or Perlée?
The Sweet Alhambra uses the smallest clover, usually six of them on a slightly shorter chain. It is the most delicate Van Cleef bracelet and the easiest to stack. Ours include the Sweet Alhambra 6 motif in engraved rose gold, $4,725.
The Vintage Alhambra is the standard size above. It is bold enough to wear alone, yet it still sits flat under a cuff.
The Perlée is a different idea altogether: a bangle edged in rows of tiny gold beads, sometimes set with stones. The X-Small Perlée with rubies and diamonds ($17,150) is the one to pair with an Alhambra on the same wrist.
Limited editions
Van Cleef & Arpels also releases seasonal and limited Alhambra bracelets, produced for one season and not repeated. For example, the Blue Sèvres porcelain bracelet ($19,950) was made for the line’s 50th anniversary, and the pre-owned Rock Candy bracelet ($11,900) mixes coloured stones on one chain. These sit above the regular stones in price, and they hold that premium because they cannot be bought new again.
What to check before you buy a Van Cleef bracelet
Check the clasp and the jump rings first, because that is where wear concentrates. Then look at each motif under good light. A chip in a stone is permanent, whereas light scratching on the gold can be polished. Finally, confirm the paperwork: every bracelet we sell is listed with what comes with it, such as the box, the certificate and the care booklet. For more on value, read Van Cleef Alhambra: what actually holds value, and for the house’s own story see Van Cleef & Arpels.
Buy a Van Cleef bracelet
Every Van Cleef bracelet above is a single piece, authenticated in house and photographed exactly as it is. Browse the full Van Cleef & Arpels collection, or follow new arrivals on Instagram.
Common questions
Which Van Cleef bracelet should I buy first?
The Vintage Alhambra 5 motif in onyx or mother of pearl on yellow gold. It suits every wardrobe and it is the easiest Van Cleef bracelet to resell.
How long is the Vintage Alhambra bracelet?
About 7.5 inches (19 cm), with five motifs. The Sweet Alhambra is a little shorter and uses smaller clovers.
Can I wear a Van Cleef bracelet every day?
Onyx, mother of pearl and plain gold cope well with daily wear. However, take malachite and turquoise off before washing your hands or applying perfume.
